Istanbul is Turkey's biggest city, a sprawling conurbation of 10 million, which straddles the Bosphorus, separating Europe from Asia, with the Golden Horn waterway dividing the main European city. It's a city of stunning contrasts, from the ancient, conservative, staunchly Muslim of the third world, to the glitter, sophistication, opulence, tolerance and cosmopolitan lifestyle around the Golden Horn suburbs. While the tourist may get a taste of this 2000-year old city in a few days, why not take time to explore and experience its charms over a week? These are the "must see" places; many are within walking distance in central Sultanahmet.

What to See and Do

The Topkapi Palace, its parks overlooking the Sea of Mamara and the Golden Horn. It was home to 500 years of often-decadent Ottoman sultans and their scheming courts and a tour will take you to the Harem, The Imperial Council Chambers and Treasury. The outstanding Istanbul Archaeological Museum is within its walls as well. A short stroll up Babihumayan St. will take you straight to Aya Sofya. It was built as an Orthodox church by Emperor Justinian in AD 527, was sacked by the Ottomans in 1453 and converted to a mosque, and became a museum to the secular nation until 1935. It's huge dome is supported by 40 massive columns and both Christian and Islamic insignia adorn the mosaics and walls. Just opposite, stands the Blue Mosque. It is one of Istanbul's most magnificent mosques, melding harmony of form with the elegance of its brilliant blue tiles. Another short walk, and you will come to the 6th century Sunken Cistern, an underground reservoir with 20 kilometer of aqueducts serving the ancient city, the remnants of the Hippodrome, the sports arena for the sultans and many other 1000-year old ruins.

Divan Yolu, the old road of the Imperial Council, radiates out from the Hippodome. About a kilometer along the Kapali Carsi or Grand Bazaar is on your right. It's a vast covered market of over 4000 shops, which nowadays tend to be geared to tourist's tastes for carpets, tacky craft, gold and spices. All deals start with a glass of apple tea, but watch out for the ripoffs. Nearby Beyazit Mosque was built in 1501 and is decorated with finely carved marble and granite and has a tiny cemetery. This borders on Beyazit Square (it used to be the Forum of Theodosius in Byzantine times) with the massive iron gates of the walled Istanbul University opening onto it. And just behind this, overlooking the shimmering Golden Horn, looms the grand grey Suleymaniye Mosque, built by Suleyman the Magnificent in 1550. There is more to explore on this Eminonu side; the colourful and aromatic Spice Market, and a little further, the cast iron Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars, and the narrow streets of the old Jewish quarter at Balat.

Beyoglu is across the Golden Horn, traversed by the Galata and the Ataturk bridges. This northern section of Istanbul was where Great European Powers flaunted their embassies and villas in the 19th century. Busy Taksim Square has a modern, European feel to it, with many modern banks, hotels, restaurants and nightclubs. Head towards the Bosphorus and you'll find the grandiose, but tacky Dolmabahce Palace, built by Sultan Abdul Mecit in the mid-19th century, his answer to Western styles. Sumptuously decorated rooms are crammed with exquisite crystal and furnishings and lavishly painted walls and ceilings were created to impress his rivals. Stroll further along the Bosphorus, and there's the Istanbul Museum of Painting and Sculpture and another few minutes and you can enjoy a drink overlooking the bustling ferries in trendy Ortakoy. Or you could hop on a ferry from Eminonu and head up the Bosphorus, passing opulent 18th century villas, to Beykos at the entrance to the Black Sea.

This is just a glimpse of the city's historical charms. To this, you can add the opportunity to have a vigorous steam bath or hamam in one of the many old Turkish baths, tasty food, a great nightlife and friendly and hospitable people. Istanbul has much to offer for all tastes.